Korean War
Hungnam Evacuation – A Christmas Miracle
In December 1950, dramatic events unfolding in the rugged mountains of North Korea captivated the world’s attention. The Battle of Chosin, one of the fiercest engagements in U.S. history, was taking place in sub-zero temperatures and knee-deep snow. After days of horrific fighting, U.N. troops, surrounded by overwhelming Chinese forces and suffering heavy casualties, began an…
Read MoreA Trip to the JSA
It’s one of the saddest and most intimidating and dangerous places on earth. The Joint Security Area (JSA), or “Truce Village” as it’s frequently referred to, is a complex of small buildings that literally sits on the border of North and South Korea. Five of the buildings, collectively called “Conference Row,” actually straddle the line…
Read MorePhysically and Emotionally Frozen
Sixty-seven years ago, on November 27, 1950, one of the most monumental battles in US history began in the desolate, unforgiving mountains of North Korea. What occurred over the next two weeks was nothing short of a terrifying, grisly, and frozen nightmare. Chosin, as the savage fight between US and Chinese forces is now called,…
Read MoreHe Never Forgot His Captain
On December 14, 2017, I’ll have the privilege of joining J. Robert “Bob” Lunney at a lecture about the Hungnam Evacuation being held at The Korea Society in New York City. It’ll be a memorable event, one that I’ve been looking forward to for months. During two and a half years of researching and writing…
Read MoreTurkey Popsicles and Frozen Gravy
67 years ago today, men of the 1st Marine Division found themselves on the other side of the world. The Korean War was raging, and they had been sent to a cold, grey, and lonely place no one had ever heard of – Chosin, or Changjin, as it’s called here in Korea. And it was…
Read MorePhotographing Korean War Veterans – An Unfinished Mission
It was one of those days that goes above and beyond your expectations. Walking toward a restaurant last week with a Korean friend who would be my interpreter for the evening, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Neither one of us had met the man we were about to have dinner with, and although we knew…
Read MoreRemembering Chosin
It’s a pivotal event of the 20th century. An experience so monumental that it has come to represent, even encapsulate, the ongoing struggle between the forces of oppression, tyranny, and authoritarianism and those who believe in freedom, justice, and democracy. The Chosin Campaign, correctly called “Changjin” in Korea, was a defining moment in history. The two-week…
Read MoreThe Domino Effect
As joint ROK/US military drills begin off the coast of Korea and Kim Jong-un revives his threats against Guam, people around the world are understandably concerned. No one knows what will happen next. With Rex Tillerson saying America’s diplomatic efforts will continue “until the first bomb drops,” a retired US Army general predicting America will…
Read MoreFor the love of SPAM
Today is the second most important holiday in Korea. It’s called Chuseok (pronounced chew-suk), and it’s the equivalent of Thanksgiving Day in America. We’re celebrating our third Chuseok in Korea, and we love it. Good food, time with family and friends, crisp fall air, and no work. What’s not to like? And then there’s Spam. As a…
Read MoreThe High Cost of Freedom
Riding the metro through Seoul last Thursday, I crossed the Han River and was treated to a spectacular view of the city. A seemingly endless array of high-rise offices, apartments, department stores, and eclectic smaller buildings – mom and pop restaurants, local coffee shops, schools, churches, and convenience stores – stretched for miles. I was…
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